The city of Seattle has no shortage of Asian cuisine. Practically every corner has a quick teriyaki shop and there are countless pho restaurants scattered around the city. There are also a number of Thai spots in town, from small local chains to mom-and-pop outfits. As easy as it is to find Thai in Seattle, it's important to find a favorite. There's nothing quite like the comfort of coming to an old standby with consistently good food and a comfortable atmosphere. For me and for plenty of other Seattleites, Thai River is that place.

Located in Seattle's north side neighborhood of Greenwood, Thai River is a small, humble restaurant with a menu of classic dishes done right. Their entrees can be served individually or family-style and their portions are generous, but not overwhelming.

For a starter, I recommend the Fresh Rolls. They come as four large tapioca wraps packed with fried tofu, fresh herbs and vegetables. Served with a side of Thai River's amazing peanut sauce, the Fresh Rolls are an excellent beginning for a summer meal. They're essentially a salad course, light vegetables that are substantial but not too filling. Especially as we approach the hot Summer months, it's best to start out with something cool and crisp.

For soup fans, you must try Thai River's Tom Kha Gai. It's a bit more involved than most I've seen, with tomato and strong citrus undertones.

For me, as with a lot of casual Thai enthusiasts, the litmus test for a restaurant is its Phad Thai. The saying goes that there are as many recipes for Phad Thai as there are people who cook it. Even if that's not the case, this most popular of Thai dishes often shows how capable your serving kitchen is. Thai River's Phad Thai is dark and sweet, mostly avoiding that "pickled" flavor that tends to creep into lesser versions of the dish. The heat control at Thai River is intuitive, which offers a crucial element of customization to their Phad Thai. In short, two stars tastes like two stars for the Northwestern regional palate.

The real draw of Thai River are its curry dishes. The Gang Gai red curry chicken is simple but stellar. None of the notes are too strong, from the sweet coconut milk to the spicy curry and the aromatic basil. For patrons in the mood for something slightly fancier, definitely go for the Duck Curry. The flavor combination is out of this world, especially the splash of pineapple.

Thai River has a number of standard dessert options. The Black Rice Pudding is a unique delicacy, though the coconut, green tea or mango ice cream are also excellent routes in the hot months. They also offer a Sweet Sticky Rice with Mango upon seasonal availability.

Of all of Seattle's cosmopolitan, Pacific-influenced dining options, little hole-in-the-wall restaurants like Thai River win out on sheer food quality. Often when you go to upscale Thai restaurants, you're paying for the atmosphere. The heart of good Thai, like all ethnic food (or maybe all food in general) is fresh ingredients cooked properly. That's what you'll get at Thai River.