Earlier this year I reviewed Lays STAX, a potato "crisp" which was, according to Wikipedia, intended to challenge the dominance of Pringles in the potato "crisp" market. I have tried STAX a few times since then (they keep going on sale right when I am at my weakest) and my impressions have remained the same: too mushy, too many broken chips, too flavorful.
Yes, "too flavorful" is a problem. Particularly in the snack aisle. How much Dorito powder do you need on your chip before you consider it adequately flavored? As an adult pushing 40, I have to say the answer is "less than they think, obviously."
Furthermore, the overabundance of flavoring discourages repeat snacking. When each chip tastes like a punch in the face, you're less inclined to eat the entire column. Is that really what they want? (I am reminded of something I read in a Malcolm Gladwell book, about how Pepsi designed their taste to be better in the first sip, thus winning taste tests. But Coke designed their taste to be better over the course of the entire can, thus winning market share.)
This time at the drug store Pringles were on sale, and I decided it was high time to return to the snack discussion at hand. The first thing I noticed, upon scrutinizing the Pringles tube, was their mascot. This oval-headed mustachioed fellow gazes up and to the right, his face a vision of hopefulness. He looks optimistic and idealistic and thoroughly adorable.
My memory served me well with regards to the chips. They are thinner, and have a better crunch than Lays STAX. Their flavor is also more mild, and better distributed throughout the chip (rather than just in a powder sitting atop the upper surface).
Revolting though these "scientifically engineered processed potato starch crisps" may be, they sure are delicious. A lot of food science technology and research goes into creating these things, which is kind of a scary thought if you stop to think about it. It brings to mind terms like "hyper-palatability." These crisps (legally they cannot be called "chips") are the kind of thing that makes Michael Pollan cry.
In fact, another phrase which occurred to me as I sampled them (Ranch flavor - and very delicious) was Pollan's "edible food-like substance." Pringles, developed by Scientists in the 1960s with the aid of supercomputers and many, many patents. In contrast to (e.g.) a potato, which has nutrients and is also a thing you can picture in your mind, unlike, say, "modified food starch."
Still better than Lays STAX, though.
Yes, "too flavorful" is a problem. Particularly in the snack aisle. How much Dorito powder do you need on your chip before you consider it adequately flavored? As an adult pushing 40, I have to say the answer is "less than they think, obviously."
Furthermore, the overabundance of flavoring discourages repeat snacking. When each chip tastes like a punch in the face, you're less inclined to eat the entire column. Is that really what they want? (I am reminded of something I read in a Malcolm Gladwell book, about how Pepsi designed their taste to be better in the first sip, thus winning taste tests. But Coke designed their taste to be better over the course of the entire can, thus winning market share.)
This time at the drug store Pringles were on sale, and I decided it was high time to return to the snack discussion at hand. The first thing I noticed, upon scrutinizing the Pringles tube, was their mascot. This oval-headed mustachioed fellow gazes up and to the right, his face a vision of hopefulness. He looks optimistic and idealistic and thoroughly adorable.
My memory served me well with regards to the chips. They are thinner, and have a better crunch than Lays STAX. Their flavor is also more mild, and better distributed throughout the chip (rather than just in a powder sitting atop the upper surface).
Revolting though these "scientifically engineered processed potato starch crisps" may be, they sure are delicious. A lot of food science technology and research goes into creating these things, which is kind of a scary thought if you stop to think about it. It brings to mind terms like "hyper-palatability." These crisps (legally they cannot be called "chips") are the kind of thing that makes Michael Pollan cry.
In fact, another phrase which occurred to me as I sampled them (Ranch flavor - and very delicious) was Pollan's "edible food-like substance." Pringles, developed by Scientists in the 1960s with the aid of supercomputers and many, many patents. In contrast to (e.g.) a potato, which has nutrients and is also a thing you can picture in your mind, unlike, say, "modified food starch."
Still better than Lays STAX, though.