February 2011

TV Food Pr0n: Avec Eric

Anyone can cook

I have to confess that while I'm familiar with Le Bernardin, I didn't know until a few months ago that Eric Ripert was a partner and the executive chef. My introduction to Ripert's career and cuisine was via reading about Tony Bourdain's meeting with Ripert shortly after Bourdain published his reveal-the-dark-underbelly of the culinary trades book Kitchen Confidential; Ripert was courteous and kind then, and, honestly, it seems to be his modus operandi. Ripert is very much of the Anyone can Cook School; I suspect Julia Child would have (and perhaps did) get along famously with Ripert.

The Disgruntled Food Critic: Super Bowl Eats


Unless you actually plan on being in Texas for this year's Super Bowl, chances are you'll be shouting at the TV in the comfort of somebody's home. If you aren't surrounded by food at all times during this event, you're doing it wrong. Normally I'm the first guy to jump to the defense of tradition when it comes to food. I've lived through enough turkey-free Thanksgiving dinners to know that some people just have no shame when it comes to walking all over the classics. Ah, but Super Bowl food is different because almost nobody makes it themselves. People order in on Game Day, which I suppose is excusable considering that the focus is on the professional beasts running back and forth on a giant field and hurting themselves for our amusement. Viewers at home shouldn't have to worry about whatever's in the oven. At the same time, I think this year we can do a little better. Consider the following: